Portmaking 9/26/06
Portmaking is a subtle sub-discipline of winemaking. Those who take it seriously, take it very seriously. My father takes it seriously. In 1975, the year of my birth, he took portmaking so seriously he decided to quit his job, and begin a lifelong commitment to sweet, fortified wines. Because of my father, I also take portmaking seriously, not necessarily because of any deep profound commitment, but, more of a fear that if I make my Port too dry, too extracted, too fruity, or too sweet, I’ll never stop hearing about it.
These things cross my mind, when, at 11:00 p.m., I debate whether or not to just go on, add the fortifying spirit, and go home. I say to myself, “maybe people might like a sweeter style…” But then, as soon as it began, the justification is crushed by the haunting image of paternal disapproval.
And so, the patient vigil winds on. Just like a fisherman, always thinking the next cast will land the trophy catch, I always think that the next sample will show the big brix drop, the drop I would surely miss were I to head home, change out of my wet clothes and take a nap. Ironically, were I to take the chance, I could probably head home right now, eat some meatloaf, take a shower, and grab a quick cat nap. But, like the fisherman, I just can’t leave, because it just might be that next sample…
I’ve tried different things with the Port fermentations so that I wouldn’t have to fortify at 3 am. I’ve tried inoculating in the morning – still, 3 am. I’ve tried it in the evening, that year it was 2 am. This year I was smart enough to inoculate on a Friday. The fermentations are never fast enough to be fortified on a weekend! But, still, here I am, late at night, waiting…
I’ve enclosed the Fermentation Log for the 2006 Troon Vineyard, Applegate Valley Port. Please, feel free to peruse….
Date Comments Brix (Temp.-F)
9/20 500 lbs Tempranillo crushed and cold soaked 26.2 (45)
9/22 Inoculated with T73 yeast, a Spanish isolate 26.2 (50)
9/23 Slowly fermenting, smells like banana bread 26.0 (60)
9/24 Fermenting well, color beginning to darken 25.4 (64)
9/25 Black berry and banana bread, put outside to warm 23.9 (64)
9/25 Ferment rate increasing 20.5 (76)
9/26 7 am Calculated target fortification at 14 B, tonight? 17.1 (76)
9/26 1 pm Call wife, cancel plans for dinner 15.4 (76)
9/26 3:40 pm Estimate time allows for microwave burrito 15.0 (74)
9/26 5:30 pm Press! 14.3 (74)
9/26 6:30 pm Press sample shows brix increase due to uncrushed berries, dark, dense color, great fruit. 14.8 (72)
9/26 8:15 pm Ferment rate decreases dramatically, discover high fiber fruit bars left by intern. 14.6 (71)
9/26 9:10 pm Mixed tank, ferment is stalling, insomnia begins…decide this might be a good time to write blog. 14.7 (71)
9/26 11:00 pm Check weather forecast for Applegate Valley and island of Fiji 14.4 (71)
9/27 12:00 am Yeast are getting happier, real movement, start trials for alcohol addition to confirm amount, target brix for 13.9 B 14.1 (68)
9/27 12:25 am FORTIFY and Mix! 190.6 proof spirit added over top with mixing. Port is mighty tasty. 13.95 (68)
A giant high five from Team Troon to one all star winemaker, Herb Quady! With eight wines entered into the 2009 Northwest Wine Summit, Herb hands Troon Vineyard the title of the most medals won of ANY Southern Oregon winery. We know we're biased but we linked the results so you can see for yourself! In case you were wondering the lovely young lady in the photo with Herb is his daughter Margaux Mae. Thanks Margaux for the "purple high five", the highest kudos one wine lover can give to another.
